Maintenance Checklists
Small Engine, Snowblower and Lawnmower Maintenance Checklists – Do’s and Don’ts
Snow Blower Maintenance for Single and Two-Stage Snowblowers
- Change the Spark Plug – This is a simple but important task will help the mower start smoother and run more efficiently. Make sure the spark plug gap is correct too (most gaps can be set between .020-.030 inches for small engines). If you do not have a gap tool you can get one from an auto parts store or call me.
- Change the Oil for 2 Stage Snowblowers– I recommend 5W-30, but before changing the oil run the Snow Blower to warm it up. This allows the oil to flow more freely and get all the dirty oil out of the engine. If the engine won’t start you can change the oil or perform some quick maintenance to get it started.
- Use Fresh Gas with Fuel Stabilizer (e.g. Sta-Bil) – Empty the gas tank at the end of the season or make sure you use stabilizer (always better to empty the tank). At the beginning of the season use fresh gas and stabilizer. Make sure for a single stage snowblower you have the proper 2-stroke engine oil to gas ratio—do not use regular engine oil!
- Add about 1 to 2 ounces of SeaFoam per gallon of gas in the gas tank – this routine fuel system treatment will clean the fuel system, carburetor and engine is safe for all gasoline and diesel engines.
- Inspect the Belts, Drive and Auger Control cables– If the belts or the cables are getting frayed or they are too loose, they may break or fail to turn your drive or auger system.
- Inspect the paddles and grease the Auger, wheels and gears – You don’t need a lot of grease
- Check the Shave Plate – this scrapes the snow off your driveway. If it’s worn on a single stage snowblower reverse it. For a two-stage snowblower replace it.
- Flip the Skid Shoes – On a two stage snowblower the skid shoes provide the height of your auger to the driveway. If you have a gravel or dirt driveway these are set for a higher auger height to prevent rocks, pebbles from entering your snowblower’s impeller system.
- Check Shear Pins – Shear pins connect the auger to the gear shaft or axle and are meant to break if you run over something that can impede the auger from moving and forcing an overload on the snowblower and harming the drive system.
- Cover and put the blower on blocks in off-season – Prevents dust and dirt from getting in the carburetor or other parts and prevents rotting of tires.
Also check my small engine tips and FAQ page
Lawnmower Maintenance for Push, Self-Propelled and Riding Lawnmowers
- Clean your riding mower or push mower with compressed air or a leaf blower – Blow out the old grass, dirt, and debris. Do this before the first use and after every use during the season. The debris that accumulates can interfere or prevent the mower from cooling. Occasional cleaning of the cooling fins, (the flywheel has fins that act as a radial fan) is recommended.
- Change the Spark Plug- This is a simple but important task will help the mower start smoother and run more efficiently. Make sure the spark plug gap is correct too (most gaps can be set between .020-.030 inches for small engines). If you do not have a gap tool you can get one from an auto parts store or call me.
- Change the Oil – I recommend 10W-40, but before changing the oil run the lawnmower to warm it up. This allows the oil to flow more freely and get all the dirty oil out of the engine. If the engine won’t start you can change the oil or perform some quick maintenance to get it started.
- Use Fresh Gas with Fuel Stabilizer (e.g. Sta-Bil) – Empty the gas tank at the end of the season or make sure you use stabilizer (always better to empty the tank). At the beginning of the season use fresh gas and stabilizer. Make sure for a single stage snowblower you have the proper 2-stroke engine oil to gas ratio—do not use regular engine oil!
- Change the Fuel Filter – Some fuel filters are built into the fuel tank and are not replaceable.
- Add about 1 to 2 ounces of SeaFoam per gallon of gas in the gas tank – this routine fuel system treatment will clean the fuel system, carburetor and engine is safe for all gasoline and diesel engines.
- Inspect the Belts and clutch cable – If the drive or V belts or the cables are getting frayed or they are too loose, they may break or fail to engage the transmission on a self-propelled lawnmower.
- Clean or replace the air filter – Between changings, you can clean a foam filter with soap and water, but make sure it is dry before reinstalling. Replace paper filters when it’s dirty. Some engines will have both a foam prefilter and paper air filter.
- Check the tires – Make sure they’re inflated to the recommended air pressure listed on the sidewall of the tires.
- Make the blades are sharp and properly balanced – I recommend having us do this.
Also check my small engine tips and FAQ page
Chainsaw Maintenance
- Regularly clean the sprocket nose, the oil inlet hole and the oil the bar groove and the cooling fins.
- Rotate the guide bar and remove burrs from the guide bar (if necessary) after each time you change or sharpen the chain.
- Check the chain tension on new chainsaws once you have worn them in and never work without lubricating your chain!
Also check my small engine tips and FAQ page